Spot the Designer - Leticia Salgado/ Mexico

What did you want to be when you were a child?

I dreamed of being an archaeologist and discovering pyramids, being in the jungle, and studying history. Since I was a child, I knew that someday I would invent or design something (today it's a reality), I still remember that, and that I would be featured in newspapers. That's why I always believed I would fulfill my destiny.

When have you started creating jewelry? How did this passion come about?

It's a long story. After a divorce, I moved to Palenque, Chiapas for a few months, and that's where the magic began. I saw how artisans created necklaces from seeds and stones, and I learned by watching. So, I returned to where I live now, Los Cabos, Mexico, which is a top-notch tourist destination, and for 12 years, I made handmade seed necklaces, teaching myself along the way. For years, I worked in the hotel industry, but I always had a passion for fashion and art. I was 48 years old when I began to feel unwell, on the brink of death (my father passed away), and from the depths of my heart and soul, I was compelled to go and study and learn how to design metal jewelry. At that time, I had 2 young children, and I had to go study in the city of Guadalajara, which meant leaving for a year. I didn't know anyone there, and I didn't know the city either. Nevertheless, I took the risk and went, with my mother helping to take care of my children. Studying in Guadalajara changed my life. I initially just wanted to learn and earn a living for my children, until I discovered the world of design, and I was captivated. It wasn't easy; I faced several challenges, but I overcame them. I am very observant, I always have been. I appreciate the beauty and aesthetics of objects, architecture, colors, shapes, and nature.

What was your first project or significant piece for you and from what point of view?

To graduate from the School of Applied Arts and Jewelry, I had to develop a collection of 10 pieces. Our teacher used to say that if we couldn't create 100 sketches in a short amount of time, we should consider pursuing something else because we wouldn't be creative enough. There are various methodologies, and since I didn't have much design knowledge, I was afraid. So, one Sunday, I told myself that I had to develop my collection that day, or else I would go back home. In a single day, I designed my collection '2 Mundos,' and they selected 26 sketches, including my jewelry piece 'Mexico,' which tells the story of the conquest of Tenochtitlán, the mestizo heritage, and the birth of a new nation. My school chose me to exhibit in Milan in 2019.

How do you charge your batteries? What other passions and creative interests do you have?

I think about design all day, every day. I read, watch interviews; I'm very passionate. Creating my brand wasn't easy, and I still dream of creating wonderful jewelry. I'm into ceramics, sculpture, and fashion. In the future, I want to design clothing, objects, or sculptures.

What does the connection between manufacturing tradition and contemporary design mean to you?

At the moment, I am solely a designer, but I also have experience crafting jewelry in a workshop. Currently, I'm in the process of setting up my own workshop. I enjoy using 3D technology as well as ancient techniques. The part I love the most is when the silver melts, and when you finish the piece of jewelry. Tradition and contemporary design, for me, symbolize power, freedom, emotions, and joy.

Is there a self-portrait piece that speaks most about you?

My most emotional piece of jewelry is 'La Mujer Caracol,' which addresses mental illnesses, primarily anxiety and depression. The piece represents a woman trapped inside her own shell, suffering from a lack of self-love and haunted by negative comments about her appearance, damaging her self-esteem. However, in the end, she finds a light and emerges into the world to triumph. The collection consists of three pieces: 'La Mujer Caracol,' 'Sol,' and 'Brilla'.

Which material have you not yet used is a temptation and a challenge for you?

I would like to experiment with glass, tree bark, and recycled materials.

How was the pandemic period for you as a jewelry designer?

I felt lost; I graduated in 2019 and went to exhibit in Italy. I was preparing to continue my journey when I heard that jewelry wouldn't be worn anymore. It hurt a lot to know that I had just started, and I already had to stop. It was very frustrating. When the pandemic ended, I applied for a competition with my 'Teocallí' jewelry, and I was selected. So, my motivation returned, and I also applied to MJW, and that's how I came back to life.

How do you see the future of contemporary jewelry?

It has a bright future, as it gives us the opportunity to express ourselves with limitless materials and shapes. Freedom for jewelry to have a voice.

Find more about the designer Leticia Salgado

Assamblage Association